Before removing the screen acrylic from the cab, we marked the inner position of our monitor’s bezel on the acrylic using a chalk pen. 05: Measuring your screen acrylicĬutting your screen decal to size is awkward. Trim any excess vinyl spilling off the edge of the acrylic with a knife. Once it’s positioned, use your applicator and a cloth to smooth it down, drive out any excess water, and remove any trapped air bubbles under the vinyl. If you’re not happy with the positioning, firmly hold the vinyl and snap it back up – the application fluid will help it release easily. Pick up the vinyl decal in both hands and, starting at one end of the acrylic, line it up with the edges and paste it down. You want them to be damp all over but not awash. Spray both the acrylic and the adhesive back of the vinyl with two or three squirts of application fluid. The former is easy: remove the backing from the vinyl marquee decal and any protective film from the acrylic. Two acrylic parts require individual application of vinyls: the marquee and the screen that goes in front of your monitor. 04: Applying vinyl to your marquee acrylic People with large fingers may find a ButterCade Snap Out Tool useful for this. Apply steady pressure to the rear of snap-in style buttons to pop them out of the cabinet.
If you’ve previously fitted joysticks and buttons to your control panel, this is the time to remove them too. Before doing this, use a liquid chalk pen and ruler to mark the edges of your LCD display on the acrylic, so we can accurately hide the bezel. For now, trim them freehand and leave as much white overmatter as you feel comfortable with.ĭepending on the design of your cabinet, you may need to remove a side panel to take out the acrylic marquee and screen panels. Curved sections for the cabinet side panels are trickier, but you don’t need to worry about these as they’re easy to trim down once fitted. The easiest way is to line up a long metal ruler so that it just covers the edge of the printing, and run a scalpel down the outside of it. Try to get rid of all white matter on straight edges. Now they’re flat, it’s time to cut out your vinyls. Leave them for at least an hour or two: 24 hours is better. Spread them out on a table or on the floor and weigh them down – coffee table books and textbooks are good for this. First separate them, if they’re on a single roll, but leave generous margins. If your vinyls all came on a single roll, the first step is to cut each of them out. We’ll use a wet application process, which makes it easier to remove and reposition decals for a short while after initial placement, to help you get a perfect alignment. Our vinyl decals, bought from Omniretro, arrived on a roll and had to be cut out, but some firms will die-cut vinyls for you.
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